The cause of an ice maker not dispensing ice can be due to several factors. Some of the most common causes and their suggested fixes include:
- Clogged Water Filter: A clogged water filter can prevent water from flowing to the ice maker. Replace the water filter if it hasn’t been changed in the last six months.
- Frozen Water Line: If the water line to the ice maker freezes, it can block water flow. Thaw the water line with a hairdryer or hot water, and make sure the freezer temperature is set to the recommended setting.
- Faulty Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve controls water flow to the ice maker. If it’s not working, replace it.
- Faulty Ice Maker Motor: If the motor that rotates the ice ejector arms is not working, the ice maker won’t dispense ice. Replace the motor.
- Faulty Ice Dispenser Motor: If the motor that drives the ice dispenser auger is not working, the ice maker won’t dispense ice. Replace the motor.
- Faulty Control Board: If the control board that controls the ice maker’s functions is faulty, it can cause the ice maker to malfunction. Replace the control board.
To fix the issue, you can try troubleshooting the above factors one by one. If the problem persists, it may be best to seek professional help from a technician or contact the manufacturer for assistance.
Door Not Sealing
Most devices will refuse to dispense ice (or water) if the door isn’t completely closed. Check that the doors can close correctly and aren’t ajar. There may be an object preventing the closure, an issue with the seal, or faulty door sensor.
Display Locked
If the display has become locked — accidentally or intentionally — it will not dispense ice. Press and hold the lock key for three seconds to unlock. Verify the child lock is not enabled either.
Dispenser Pressed Too Long
Continual usage of the ice maker may result in an automatic shut-off to prevent the motor from overheating (just throw some ice on it!). If you think this might have been the case, reset the device by releasing the dispenser paddle and allowing a few minutes of rest.
Ice Clumps in Bin, Dispenser, or Raker
When ice cubes are exposed to heat which allows them to move out of the tray, or due to a door not closing, the ice melts into a continually larger mass — an iceberg. Clearing your system from these ice blockages will likely remedy your dispensing issues.
Check the chute where ice cubes are made and see how large the blockage might be. Remove the stuck ice with a chisel, hairdryer, or warm water and rag while making sure not to break the plastic bits. Ice may have built up in the ice molds. Remove and pour warm water through the molds so the old ice will melt and new ice can form.
Motor Failure
Compact ice makers frequently experience motor failure. Disconnect the motor from power and test for continuity. A value between 400-600Ω is acceptable. Even though your measured resistance value may be appropriate, the gears inside may be jammed. Wire the motor leads to a spare 115 AC (or regional) power cord. Mark a reference line on the gears and gearbox before plugging in power. Return after 10 minutes to see if the marks have moved. If this test or the resistance test fail, replace the motor.
Dirty Contact Switch
If your ice maker is making ice but won’t trigger automatic harvest cycles then it’s likely your points have too much carbon buildup. Each time your machine dispenses ice a spark jumps across the switch. After hundreds of sparks the contacts are properly charred. To diagnose this issue, initiate a manual ice harvesting cycle.
Remove the plastic cover of the ice maker control module. This should expose a white or metal timing gear labelled with “DO NOT TURN MANUALLY”. Use a jumper wire — an insulated 12 gauge copper wire that’s stripped at the ends — and jump points ‘T’ and ‘H’ on the front of the unit. If the ice maker is working, it will respond to the jumper wire, turning the timer wheel. Leave the jumper in for 5-10 seconds until a click is heard. The manual harvest cycle has been initiated.
If the ice falls down from the ice maker, that’s a good sign. Your motor switch is dirty. Locate and rub 1200 grit sandpaper between the points to clean carbon or corrosion off the contact surfaces. Fun fact: Points were the standard — and constantly failing components — in pre-80s automobile ignitions!
Mold Heater Failure
During the ice maker’s harvest cycle a heater melts the ice cubes and allows them to eject. Disconnect the electrical connections and test for continuity. A resistance value between 60-80Ω is fine. Replace if reading is out of specifications and the mold heater isn’t hot.
Thermostat Failure
The thermostat is a temperature activated switch that signals the start of a harvest cycle. Test for continuity while the thermostat is at 10F or lower. Continuity suggests the thermostat doesn’t need replacing.
Frozen Motor Auger
When the internal temperature of the freezer is too low and moisture is allowed into the compartment, the auger motor can freeze and will not be able to dispense ice. By holding down the dispense lever, the motor will warm up and melt the ice stopping its rotation. This is not ideal and wears your motor due to hard starting conditions. You may be able to use a hairdryer to heat your motor, or allow your freezer to return to room temperature.
Holding Switch Failure
Locate the holding switch, and test for continuity between “C” and “NO” terminals. If there is no continuity with the switch open or closed, replace the switch.
Ice Maker Out of Ice
In the event that your ice maker isn’t making ice, then your machine will not be able to dispense anything. Follow this guide to troubleshoot that problem.
